How to Choose a Generator for RV Boondocking

An RV boondocking generator has two jobs that pull in different directions. It must be big enough to start a rooftop air conditioner and charge a battery bank quickly, yet light and quiet enough to live in a truck bed or cargo carrier and not ruin a remote campsite. Get the sizing wrong and you either trip the breaker every time the AC compressor kicks on or haul around a heavy, thirsty machine you rarely need. This guide shows how to size and spec a generator for off-grid RV stays.

Step 1: Know your RV’s electrical service

RVs come with either a 30-amp or 50-amp service. The plug type tells you what your rig can draw from shore power, which sets the practical ceiling for a generator.

Most boondockers with a 30A trailer or small motorhome do fine with 3,000 to 3,800W. A 50A fifth wheel with two ACs needs more, though many owners boondock using only one AC and load-manage around a 4,000 to 5,500W unit.

Step 2: The air conditioner decides the size

Rooftop AC units are the largest load and the hardest to start.

A soft-start module, which ramps the compressor up gradually, often cuts the surge by 50 to 70 percent. It is the single cheapest way to run AC from a smaller, lighter generator.

Step 3: Battery charging speed

When boondocking, the generator is mainly a charger. Your converter or inverter-charger sets how fast the generator can refill the bank. A 60A converter at about 14V draws roughly 850 to 1,000W from the generator; a 100A lithium charger draws around 1,400 to 1,600W. If your bank is 400Ah of lithium and you want to refill 50 percent in two hours, you need about a 100A charger and a generator with at least 2,000W to spare after other loads.

Step 4: Fuel choice for remote camps

Gasoline

Common and energy dense. Carry fuel in approved cans outside the living area. A 3,000W-class inverter typically burns 0.2 to 0.3 gallons per hour at quarter load.

Propane or dual fuel

Many RVers prefer propane because the rig already carries it for the fridge, furnace, and stove. You can plumb the generator to an external quick-connect or carry a separate cylinder. Expect about 10 to 15 percent less output and plan cylinder capacity: a 20 lb cylinder often lasts 6 to 10 hours at moderate load.

Step 5: Altitude, noise, and weight

Boondocking often happens at elevation. Output drops roughly 3 to 4 percent per 1,000 feet, so a 3,000W generator at 6,000 feet may deliver closer to 2,400W, possibly not enough to start a 15,000 BTU AC without a soft start. Noise matters for your neighbors and your own peace; look for 52 to 60 dBA at 23 feet. Weight matters because you will lift it: 3,000W-class inverters commonly weigh 60 to 100 lb, so consider a hitch-mounted carrier or a pair of 2,000W units in parallel.

Step 6: RV-specific features

• A TT-30R outlet for direct plug-in, or a 14-50R on larger units.
• Remote or app start, handy when the generator sits on the rear bumper.
• Parallel capability for future expansion.
• CO shutoff sensors, especially important near slide-outs and windows.
• Hour meter for tracking oil change intervals, often every 50 to 100 hours.

FAQ

Can a 2,000W generator run an RV air conditioner?

A 2,000 to 2,300W inverter can often run a 13,500 BTU AC once a soft-start kit is installed, especially near sea level. Without a soft start, most will overload on compressor startup.

Should I buy two small generators or one large one?

Two 2,000 to 2,500W units in parallel are easier to lift, let you bring one on mild trips, and provide redundancy. One large unit is cheaper and simpler to run. For solo travelers who lift gear alone, two small units are usually the better choice.

Bottom line

Match the generator to your RV’s service and AC: a 30A rig with a 13,500 BTU unit is well served by a 3,000W-class inverter, or a 2,200W unit with a soft start. Factor in charger draw, altitude derating, and the weight you can realistically lift, and favor dual fuel if your rig already runs on propane.